Traveling alone as a woman

Interview: Traveling Alone as a Woman – What Does It Entail?

Introductions:

• Camille, 30 years old, chef in Paris:
  "I left France to travel to Vietnam without taking a plane. It’s been a month since I started my journey."

• Sally, 31 years old, public relations consultant:
  "My trip is five and a half months long: six months in Central Asia, along the Silk Road, followed by another six months in South America."

What did people say about you traveling alone?

Sally:
*"People who know me weren’t surprised, but 99% of them thought it was very brave. Many women told me they wouldn’t dare, especially in Central Asia, as it’s an unfamiliar region. For example, my mother was particularly worried about Kazakhstan.

There was also the notion that this trip could put my relationship at risk. Some people asked if I was really sure about going: 'You’re already 30, you don’t have kids yet, and you’re going to leave everything behind to travel?'"*

Camille:
*"It was pretty much the same for me. The only person who was really worried was my mom, who asked me to give her regular updates. She was especially anxious about Russia because of the war.

A lot of people also kept asking why I didn’t just take a plane."*

Do you have any rules to ensure your safety during the trip?

Camille:
*"These aren’t really strict rules, but I am more cautious. For example, I only book female dorms, avoid going out alone at night, and never take taxis late at night.

Since I was traveling through colder countries, clothing wasn’t much of an issue, but you definitely need to be mindful of how you behave around men. I avoid being overly friendly or laughing too much, and I always say I have a boyfriend, even if it’s not true, and that he’s waiting for me somewhere.

When I took the Trans-Siberian, I chose compartments with more beds because being surrounded by people made me feel safer in case anything happened."*

Sally:
*"It’s mostly common-sense precautions, the same ones I would follow in Germany. I don’t hike alone, I avoid Couchsurfing at a man’s place, and I always sit in the back seat of taxis. I also listen to my gut—no walking alone at night if I’ve been drinking, and I avoid guided tours with male guides.

Clothing is another important consideration, especially when respecting local cultures. In Central Asia, for instance, the majority-Muslim countries are more conservative. One time, I wore a light summer dress, but it became an issue in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, where women are expected to cover their arms. It’s a mix of respecting their culture and avoiding unnecessary attention.

Since I’m blonde, I’ve noticed I draw more stares when I wear my hair down, so I try to keep it tied up."*

Are there any countries you avoid as a woman?

Sally:
"Yes, Afghanistan, like most travelers in Central Asia, because of the situation regarding women’s rights. For other countries, I’ll admit it’s sometimes based on racial stereotypes. I’ve visited two Arab countries before but still choose to avoid certain regions as a precaution."

Camille:
"I don’t specifically avoid countries just because I’m a woman, but certain lesser-known Muslim countries can seem riskier. For instance, I’ve avoided some parts of the southern route. However, since I’m traveling by train, I might consider visiting these areas on my way back."

Which part of the trip scared you the most? Was it a cliché or reality?

Camille:
"Russia. But in the end, it turned out to be one of the best parts of my trip. The people were incredibly kind and protective, especially because I was a solo female traveler. I never felt uncomfortable; in fact, it was quite the opposite."

Sally:
"At first, it was Tajikistan because I had so little information about the country. But I actually felt less worried there than I did when thinking about South America, for example."

Anecdotes

Sally:

• Tajikistan:
  "To travel between cities, you often have to use shared taxis. Once, I got in a taxi as the first passenger, and the driver insisted on talking to me. Later, he started sending me messages through a translator app like, ‘I think we’d have a great night together,’ or, ‘What if we took a break for an hour before continuing?’ I eventually got out and switched to another taxi that already had several passengers."

• Kazakhstan:
  "On a train, a man began asking me very personal questions. It wasn’t outright harassment, but it was definitely inappropriate and made me uncomfortable."

Camille:

• Russia:
  "In a dormitory, a drunk traveler insisted on sharing my bed. After I said no, he left but spent the next 30 minutes knocking on my wall and sending me messages on WhatsApp."

• Trans-Siberian Railway:
  *"The train makes many stops, with passengers frequently getting on and off. At one point, two Russians boarded and started drinking with a retired soldier who was already there. I could tell they were talking about me. We exchanged a few words, but their English was limited, so the conversation was basic.

Later, another man joined, and he spoke English fluently. He overheard the two Russians and translated their conversation for me. He also warned me to be cautious around the soldier. To help me feel more comfortable, he set up a curtain to give me some privacy and shield me from their stares."*